"From Cassel to New Albany," at LouisvilleBeer.com

My latest column is up at LouisvilleBeer.com ... remember that these appear twice monthly, and thanks for reading.

From Cassel to New Albany

Three of us were struggling up a fairly steep incline, our creaking rental bicycles squeaking and straining over ascending cobblestones. As a proponent of the manly cycling virtues, I found it impossible to admit that I lacked both gears and legs, and kept churning forward, but at some point I glanced backward and saw that my pal Tim Eads had given up the ghost...

Menu for the Louis Le Français beer dinner on Thursday, March 1.

On Bastille Day, July 14, a 5-course French-inspired Biere de Garde dinner at Bank Street Brewhouse.

On Wednesday, July 14, the Bank Street Brewhouse will honor France’s national holiday, Bastille Day, with an exclusive five-course, fixed-price French menu prepared by Chef Josh Lehman and his intrepid kitchen staff.

As before, this year’s Bastille Day meal comes complete with flavors of French-brewed Bieres de Garde, as well as American craft versions of Northern France’s famous specialty style of malty, food-friendly ale.

In 2010, we’re adapting a changed Bastille Day format of a single-seating beer dinner, and pairing the beers with the food in an order yet to be determined as of this writing. The Publican will provide comments on the beers. Note that mussels and frites will be available on the 14th for those seeking a lighter bill of fare.

Advance reservations for Bastille Day are highly recommended, and can be made by calling 812-725-9585 or e-mailing steve@newalbanian.com. The price is $65 each, service non compris (not including service).

MENU

Passed hors d'oeuvres

Salad Lyonnaise -- Frisse Lettuce, Shallots, Lardons of Bacon, Poached Local Egg, Lemon Vinaigrette

Capriole Goat Cheese Soufflé -- Lemon , Thyme, Mornay Sauce

Bouillabaisse -- Lobster, Clams, Mussels, Fingerling Potatoes, Saffron Broth, Rouille

3-D Valley Farms Beef -- Gratin Potato, Roasted Shallots, Wild Mushrooms, Dijon Mustard Veal Stock Reduction

Chocolate Mousse -- Local Fruit, Pistachios, Basil

BEER

Brasserie St. Germaine Page-24 Blanche (France; bottle)
Theillier La Bavaisienne Blonde (France; bottle)
Lost Abbey Avant Garde (USA; bottle)
Schlafly Biere de Garde (USA; 2009 bottle)
La Choulette 'Les Sans Culottes' (France; bottle)
NABC’s USA vs. Algeria – Maghreb Biere de Garde (USA; draft)

These Bieres de Garde will be paired with the courses in small portions. NABC’s draft Maghreb will be available throughout the evening for full pours, and additional bottles (varying quantities) of the preceding will be available for purchase at market prices, along with small quantities of other fine Bieres de Garde: Jenlain Ambrée French Farmhouse Ale, Jenlain Blonde Bière de Garde, Thiriez Blonde and Thiriez Extra. Naturally, NABC's lineup of house beers will also be on tap like always.

As a personal note, two previous Bastille Day dinners in conjunction with the late, lamented Bistro New Albany were among my favorite beer dinners ever, any place, any time. We at NABC are proud to revive and perpetuate the Bastille Day tradition in downtown New Albany.

(26 April '10) Office Hours with the Publican: Help me inventory our French Bieres de Garde by tasting a few of them.

Longtime observers will note that I've spent eighteen years at the Public House touting French Bieres de Garde, a personal favorite. The reaction has tended to be underwhelming, for reasons that I've never really understood, but that's okay.
We're coming upon an ordering cycle from Shelton Brothers, which imports all the French beers described below. In turn, the list below is reprinted from the Pizzeria & Public House's everyday beer list. In essence, both in the sense of the beer list and the approach of Bastille Day (my annual French beer showcase, this year as last slated for Bank Street Brewhouse on July 14), it's inventory time. It's time to see what we have in stock, how it tastes, and what needs to be ordered for Bastille Day.

What better time that Office Hours to achieve this? The only drawback is the absence of food, with which Bieres de Garde pair so well, so maybe we'll throw a large pizza into the mix tomorrow night (my treat). For $5, we'll deal you in. Some or all of the following will be included, depending on what's there.

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France’s famed Bieres de Garde originally were produced by farmhouse breweries located in the north of France, near the Belgian border. Climactically and historically, it is a transitional zone, where wine-making meets brewing, and Bieres de Garde came about as the thoughtful solution to the problem posed by summertime heat, which rendered brewing almost impossible in the age before temperature-controlled fermentation.

The farmers brewed ale during cooler weather, bottled it in used wine and champagne bottles, and cellared the bottles for drinking during summer until the heat subsided and brewing could resume. Bieres de Garde had to be sufficiently ample and alcoholic for cellaring, but not too heavy in body for warm-weather drinking.

Also, they were intended to accompany food (it’s France, after all!), hence the deep and complex maltiness of the style’s better, more enduring examples. There are hoppy types, too. Either way, you needn’t wait until warm weather, because Bieres de Garde pair superbly with pizza any time of year. Average alcohol content of the bottles listed below is 7.5% abv.

FRANCE (NORTHERN) - BIERES DE GARDE

Duyck Jenlain Ambree 25.4 oz 12.00
Since 1922, a classic malty, amber example.

La Bavaisienne 25.4 oz 17.50
Brown, malty and sweetish, but with a finishing hop balance.

La Choulette Ambree 24.4 oz 15.25
First brewed in 1885, later revived. Try with Greek lasagna.

La Choulette Sans Culottes 25.4 oz 15.25
“Without trousers.” Tawny golden, elegant with food.

Page 24 (Brasserie St. Germaine)
Reserve Hildegarde Ambree 25.4 oz 12.50
Hoppier than most, with Brewer’s Gold and Strissel Spalt hops.

St. Druon de Sebourg Abbey 25.4 oz 14.50
Golden, and brewed with Alsatian malt, hops and special yeast.

Thiriez Blonde 25.4 oz 17.25
From the village of Esquelbecq, leaning toward a spicy Saison.

Thirex Xxtra 25.4 oz 17.25
Hop laden: The eccentric Bramling Cross hop from Kent.

Bank Street Brewhouse: Tonight's Bastille Day list of Bieres de Garde.

Here is tonight's Bieres de Garde list for the Bastille Day dinner at NABC's Bank Street Brewhouse. The menu is here.

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All bottles listed below are 750 ml. Choose one to accompany Chef Josh Lehman’s five-course Bastille Day meal. Because there are varying numbers of each, supply is contingent on demand. I have not made pairing suggestions, primarily because these Bieres de Garde share characteristics, and should suit the cuisine as a whole. I encourage those sharing a table to select different Bieres de Garde, share the beer, and conduct your own pairings.

France’s famed Bieres de Garde originally were produced by farmhouse breweries located in the north of France, near the Belgian border. Climactically and historically, it is a transitional zone, where wine-making meets brewing, and Bieres de Garde came about as the thoughtful solution to the problem posed by summertime heat, which rendered brewing almost impossible in the age before temperature-controlled fermentation.

The farmers brewed ale during cooler weather, bottled it in used wine and champagne bottles, and cellared the bottles for drinking during summer until the heat subsided and brewing could resume. Bieres de Garde had to be sufficiently ample and alcoholic for cellaring, but not too heavy in body for warm-weather drinking. They also had to go well with food (it’s France!), hence the complex maltiness of the style’s better, enduring examples.
-- Roger A. Baylor, NABC

Castelain Blond (6% abv)
From the celebrated Castelain brewery, which led the way in restoring an international reputation for traditional Bieres de Garde. Firm and malty sweet, but balanced, with grassy and citrusy hop character.

Jenlain Ambree (7.5% abv)
First brewed by the Duyck brewery in 1922, Jenlain Ambree uses three malts and three hop varieties, all French-grown (the latter in Alsace). Biere de Garde’s malt complexity is showcased to great effect here.

Jenlain Blonde (7% abv)
Ambree needed a sibling, and Jenlain Blonde came along in 2005 to much acclaim. A shade milder and lighter than its older brother, with a subdued hoppiness.

La Choulette Ambree (8% abv)
Flagship amber Biere de Garde from a brewery founded in 1885, and revived during the 1970’s. Delicious maltiness, and versatile pairing possibilities.

La Choulette Blonde (7.5% abv)
Malty, but with a drier, spicier edge than the brewery’s flagship amber.

La Choulette “Les Sans Culottes” (7% abv)
Tawny golden to amber in color, and displaying an all-purpose elegance with food. From the Shelton Brothers website: “This, the brewery’s masterpiece, proudly pays homage to Les Sans Culottes – the “trouserless” craftsmen who could not afford uniforms but unflinchingly did the handiwork of the French Revolution. A number of brewers were included in their ranks.”

Schlafly Biere de Garde (7.5% abv)
Our sole American-made entry is a worthy version of the style. Bottle-conditioned, with a slight yeastiness in younger examples like these, yielding to polished maltiness with age.

Vegetarian options will be available on Bastille Day at the Bank Street Brewhouse.

I was supposed to get back to you with this, and I'm a bit tardy.

I've conferred with Chef Josh, and he will have vegetarian options available on next Tuesday's special Bastille Day menu at Bank Street Brewhouse. Note this is "vegetarian," not vegan and/or lactose intolerant. The example he used during our chat is vegetarian Quiche Lorraine.

Bastille Day menu and matching Bieres de Garde at the Bank Street Brewhouse on Tuesday, July 14.

Bastille Day menu and matching Bieres de Garde at the Bank Street Brewhouse on Tuesday, July 14.

On Tuesday, July 14, NABC’s Bank Street Brewhouse (415 Bank Street in downtown New Albany) will honor the French national holiday of Bastille Day with an exclusive, 5-course, fixed-price French menu prepared by Chef Joshua Lehman and his “magnifique” kitchen staff.

A 750ml bottle of Biere de Garde from a list (see below) chosen by NABC owner Roger A. Baylor is included in the price of each meal, which will be served between the hours of 5:30 p.m. and 9:00 p.m.

Mussels and frites also will be available on the 14th for those seeking a lighter bill of fare.

Price and Reservations

While not required, advance reservations for the Bastille Day meal are recommended, and can be made by calling 812-725-9585 or e-mailing gregg@newalbanian.com.

The price is $60, service compris (including service), but if you reserve and pre-pay for this meal at the Bank Street Brewhouse prior to Bastille Day, you’ll receive a special advance price of $55, also including service.

The Beers.

A selection of Bieres de Garde from the Castelain, Jenlain and La Choulette breweries in Northern France, alongside Schlafly’s craft-brewed American version of this traditional, malty style, will be offered.

Castelain Blond
Jenlain Ambree
Jenlain Blonde
La Choulette Ambree
La Choulette Blonde
Schlafly Biere de Garde

Bieres de Garde pair superbly with food, and Bastille Day diners may select one of the preceding to accompany the meal -- and to share samples with friends. Additional bottles will be available for purchase at market prices. Naturally, NABC's lineup of house beers will also be on tap like always.

The Menu:

First Course:
Gougeres

Second Course (choose 1):
Poached Egg Salad
Vichyssoise
Country-style pâté

Third Course (choose 1):
Cassoulet
Bouillabaisse
Quiche Lorraine

Fourth Course:
Fromages (assorted)

Fifth Course (choose 1):
Chocolate Mousse
Creme Brulee

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As a personal note, two previous Bastille Day dinners in conjunction with the late, lamented Bistro New Albany were among my favorite beer dinners ever, any place, any time. I'm proud to revive the tradition in downtown New Albany.

Photos: Bastille Day Biere de Garde Dinner at Bistro New Albany.

Mug Shots: Beer for Bastille Day.

Usually I don't reprint the "Mug Shots" pieces that appear in the Louisville Eccentric Observer (LEO), although I link to them periodically.

There'll be an exception today owing to extenuating circumstances.

First, the subject matter is appropriate for Sunday's much anticipated Bastille Day Biere de Garde Dinner at Bistro New Albany. Second, owing to an unfortunate mix-up, the publication dates for the two most recent "Mug Shots" became reversed. The Biere de Garde story below was to have appeared yesterday, and the lambic article on June 27. Here's how they actually appeared:

Mug Shots: Retro lambic
(July 11, 2007)

Mug Shots: Beer for Bastille Day
(June 27, 2007)

That's fine; accidents happen. Now, to France ...

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Beer for Bastille Day

From the time just after 9-11, when it became the stated policy of every illiterate bumpkin in the American hinterlands to demean all things French without understanding any of them, I’ve resolved to buy and drink beer from France as often as possible.

Contrary to what you may have heard, this political statement requires no sacrifice whatsoever, because no other brewing nation in Europe is as underrated as France – and we’re not speaking here of Alsace’s producers of German-tinged Euro-lager like Kronenbourg. Rather, France’s prime brewing region lies to the north of Paris, alongside Belgium.

It is indicative of the imprecision with which beer styles are codified that aficionados tend to group the ales of Northern France into a catch-all category, Bieres de Garde (or, “beers that have been kept”). As with the Saison style of French-speaking Belgium, these originally were individualistic farmhouse ales brewed in cooler weather, bottled, and stored for later use. This period of aging rounded the edges and contributed a cellar character to ales that were little known outside the region until relatively recently.

In general terms, today’s Bieres de Garde have in common glorious layers of rich malt complexity, with hop-accented offerings tasty, but less common. They can be golden, amber or brown, with the latter being particular good alongside dinner.

While the bulk of received wisdom pertaining to food and drink concentrates on the oenophile’s vision of the correct jug of wine for a particular loaf of bread, France’s Bieres de Garde are an ideal accompaniment to the finest multi-course meal – or to a wheel of stinky cheese, rough country pate and a crusty baguette.

Be adventurous and look for 750 ml bottles, some corked and other crown capped, of Jenlain, Trois Monts, La Choulette, St. Amand and Castelain.

2nd annual Bastille Day Biere de Garde Dinner at Bistro New Albany on Sunday, July 15.

On Sunday, July 15, Bistro New Albany & NABC are co-sponsoring our 2nd annual Bastille Day Biere de Garde dinner, to be held at Bistro New Albany – we hope on the patio; we'll move inside if there's rain or undue heat. Starting time is 6:00 p.m.

Chef Dave Clancy's five-course French menu will include hors-d ‘oeuvres, soup, salad, and entree and dessert, and will be paired with beers selected by the Publican (that's me) from Brasserie Thiriez, Brasserie Duyck (Jenlain) and Brasserie Artisanale La Choulette. As a bonus, we'll have draft vintage French cider from Normandy: Cidre Bouche Brut E. Dupont 2002. Ales will be poured in 4-oz portions, and I’ll have a few comments with each.

The price is $65 per person (service non compris), and reservations can be made by calling Bistro New Albany at 812-949-5227.

You may view the event poster here. The menu, including beer pairings, follows.

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Bastille Day aperitif

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Hors- d ‘oeuvres

- Canapes de Gravlax que Saler en Duchene avec Crème Fraiche et Ciboulettes (Canapes of Duchene Cured Gravlax with Crème Fraiche and Chives)

- Escargot que pate a frire en Jenlain Ambree avec Citron-Chervil Aioli (Jenlain Ambree Battered and Deep Fried Escargot with Lemon-Chervil Aiolli)

- Bouchees avec Chevre et Lavande (Boucheés with Chevre and Lavender)

Jenlain Ambree (6% abv)
A classic amber Biere de Garde from the Duyck brewery.

Thiriez Blonde (6% abv)

Farmhouse blond brewed in French Flanders, near the Belgian border.

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Soup Course

- Vichyssoise avec Celeri et Noix de Grille (Chilled Potato, Leek, and Celery Puree with Toasted Walnuts)

Thiriez Extra (4.5% abv)

Farmhouse bitter with French barley and English hops.

St. Druon de Sebourg Abbey Ale (6% abv)

French barley, wheat and Alsatian hops combine in a tribute to a nearby church named for a “homeless, pious orphan.”

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Salad Course

- Salade de Chicoree avec des Poires de Pocher, Roquefort, et Miel-Thym Vinaigrette (Endive Salad with Poached Pears, Roquefort, and Honey-Thyme Vinaigrette)

La Choulette Les Sans Culottes (7% abv)

From the importer’s website: “This, the brewery’s masterpiece, proudly pays homage to Les Sans Culottes – the “trouserless” craftsmen who could not afford uniforms but unflinchingly did the handiwork of the French Revolution. A number of brewers were included in their ranks.”

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Entree Course

- Veau de Grillade avec Truffe Parfumer Pomme de Terres Lyonnaise, Asperges, et Sauce a Chasseur de Tomate d’Heritage (Char Broiled Veal Chop with Truffle Scented Lyonnaise Potatoes, Asparagus and Heirloom Tomato Chasseur Sauce)

Cidre Bouche Brut E. Dupont 2002 (5.5% abv)
Classic artisanal cider from Normandy. The Dupont family orchard contains 6,000 trees of typical regional apple varieties, including Saint-Martin, Binet, Noel de champs, Mettais, Frequin and Rouge Duret.

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Dessert Course

- Chocolat Noir-Grand Marnier Mousse avec Framboise et Crème (Dark Chocolate-Grand Marnier Mousse with Raspberries and Fresh Cream)

La Choulette Framboise (6% abv)

Fresh raspberry juice is added to the brewery’s Ambree.