A brief history of Gravity Head, 1999-2006.

Gravity Head has evolved in strange and incredible ways since its humble and improvisational beginnings in 1999. With the eighth such celebration now visible on the horizon, here's a glance at past Gravity Heads.

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Gravity Head Version 1.0 … April 29, 1999.
The Gravity Head concept dates to 1999, when we decided to inaugurate our newly completed walk-in beer cooler by featuring as many “hoppy” beers as could be located on short notice. The ensuing festival would be called “Hop Head.”

Subsequently, more “gravity” beers were available than “hoppy” ones, and the festival accordingly morphed into Gravity Head.

According to our flier, the inaugural Gravity Head would last “until each keg has passed away into memory’s warm glow of the greatest draft beer line-up ever seen in the metropolitan Louisville area.” Many of these beers, including Delirium Tremens and Bell’s Two Hearted Ale, have since become standards in the Rich O’s draft lineup.

“We’ve just signed legislation outlawing light beer forever … the bombing begins on March 31, 2000.”
In 2000, we upped the ante by offering six barley wines simultaneously … along with five Belgian strong specialty ales, four German bocks, three English strong ales, three imperial stouts, and two other American ales for good measure. It was the first year for t-shirts (featuring the phrase above and a catapult), “The Gravity Form,” the enshrinement of the starting lineup announcement and running the gauntlet as rites of Gravity passage.

March 9, 2001: “Light beer? I’m sorry, sir, but you’re cut off.”
The local debuts of draft Samichlaus, Eggenberg Urbock 23, Hair of the Dog’s Fred and Adam, Scotch de Silly and Gale’s Millennium Brew, but more importantly, three cask-conditioned gravity ales were dispensed during the first three weekends of the festival.

Gravity Head 2002, beginning March 8, 2002: “Liteweights need not apply.”
The emphasis in 2002 was placed on microbrewed gravity beers: Three powerhouse ales from Rogue in Oregon, three from Kalamazoo (Bell’s) Brewing in Michigan, two from Victory Brewing (“Malt Advocate” magazine’s Brewery of the Year) in Pennsylvania, and one from Brooklyn Brewing in New York. There were three cask-conditioned ales in 2002, and altogether, 16 first-time draft beers, including some that were making their Kentuckiana debuts.

Gravity Head 2003, beginning March 7, 2003: “Guilty as charged, Liteweight.”
18 first-time drafts led the way, including Bell’s Expedition Stout and our own NABC Solidarity. We bid a fond farewell the 1996 vintage of Rogue Old Crustacean Barley Wine - Crusty, we hardly knew ye!

Gravity Head 2004, beginning March 12: “Raise Your Glass to the Gravity Head Diet.”
Thanks to the experimental use of a cold plate, it was possible to have 18 gravity beers on tap at once. Also, once again, 18 first-time “Gravity Head Friendly” contestants were recorded. The recent trend of emphasizing microbrewed gravity beers continued, as it was becoming progressively easier to obtain the best in American brewing.

Gravity Head 2005, beginning March 11: “It’s a Whole New Dementia.”
The seventh edition of Gravity Head will be remembered for the Publican’s questionable decision to contract pneumonia and be absent for much of the first two weeks. A diverse selection of gravity textures and flavors included 15 first-time drafts, with NABC’s own NobleSmoker moving fastest.

See "End of January update: "Gravity Head 2006: Reality ABV" advance orders preview" for the latest on this year's edition.

Browning's Restaurant and Brewery is progressing.

Brewmaster Brian Reymiller of Browning’s Restaurant and Brewery dropped by Rich O's last week for a chat and a pint, accompanied by an out-of-town friend, Ed, who Brian said gave him his first brewing job (at a Hops! Brewery franchise somewhere Down South).

Later Brian worked for Victory Brewing in Pennsylvania, a curmudgeonly favorite, and Smoky Mountain Brewing Company in Tennessee. He came to Browning’s during a period of reorganization (to put it diplomatically), and although there’s still work to be done to permanently establish Browning’s as an upper echelon option for Louisville-area beer enthusiasts, it would seem that much progress is being made.

Browning’s (slightly upscale pub ambience) and the adjoining Park Place on Main (white tablecloth) are situated in Louisville Slugger Field, home of the AAA Bats.

The chef is local legend Anoosh Shariat, a man whose considerable talents are perhaps more applicable to the Park Place side, but who has lifted the quality and flair of the brewpub menu beyond where it was before his arrival.

As noted at the brewpub’s half of the joint web site, the list of regular beer offerings has been tightened to four principles and given proper names, mostly derived from Louisville history: Saint Hildegard Helles Lager, John Shield’s Blacksmith Porter, Fleur De Lis IPA and Louis XVI Guillotine ESB.

The physical set-up of the brewpub remains stunning, with a two-story glass enclosed brewing tower looking out over the seating area. There have been problems in the past with balancing the cathedral-like height of the ceilings with the need to suggest warmth and intimacy on the floor, but in spite of ongoing efforts to bring this about by rearranging furniture and booths, probably the best solution is to have the brewpub filled with people drinking beer, dining and having fun.

Readers are encouraged to check out Brian’s brewing work and report on the experience at Browning’s.

(Photo credit goes to the Browning's web site ... by chance, was it assembled by New Albany's Idealogy band of merry ad men?)

Courier-Journal notes “passing of the fork” as restaurant critic Susan Reigler moves to travel writing.

It’s time to shuffle the deck in Gannettland.

The changing dining scene; Unveiled critic recalls expansion, by Susan Reigler, Courier-Journal critic.

My byline will be moving to Sundays, where I'll soon have a new beat as The Courier-Journal's travel writer in an expanded, stand-alone Travel section that has its premiere Feb. 12.

Instead of bon appetit, I will be wishing you bon voyage!

It certainly doesn’t sound like a demotion, does it?

But overall, it’s a Cal Ripkin sort of moment.

Susan’s done 662 C-J dining columns since May, 1992; eerily, I began my labors at Rich O’s Public House a month or so later. If memory serves, her first review of our place was in 1995 (it was positive for the most part, and we eventually replaced the ratty carpet, anyway).

It’s true that over the years, Susan came to be a regular weekly visitor to Rich O’s owing to another of her many sidelines, music, and I’m proud to say that we’ve served her a pint or two of fine ale along the way.

As for the other side of the coin, I’ve tended to sidestep criticisms of the critic, who has caught her fair share of flak -- served piping hot by some area foodies and a few others who feel a lingering and perfectly understandable contempt for the mass-market journalistic practices of Gannett.

It’s a discussion that I won’t join, because restaurant criticism’s not my line – beer is, and as such, what I’m most thankful to Susan for undertaking over the years is the inclusion in her reviews of information about beer, where once only wine selections were noted.

For almost 14 years, Susan’s taken an interest in the beer list as well as the wine list, and although there hasn’t always been sufficient space to explore the topic in depth, she’s been willing to ask the question: Why great food with purely pedestrian beer?

Eventually Susan pioneered the C-J’s “Drinks” column, and often featured Louisville area breweries. She’s done much to help raise awareness of beer in the metro Louisville area – and that’s worth four stars to me.

There’ll be a reorganization of the newspaper’s food and drink department, with food and cooking guru Sarah Fritschner in charge and Ron Mikulak right behind her, and with freelance critical assistance from Marty Rosen, the IUS librarian and my choice for best pure writer of anyone in the area.

Let's hope that the C-J gives Marty the words he needs to shine. When you're as good as he is, 350's a travesty.

And remember -- if Susan needs help with the beer travel itinerary, I’m only a phone call away.

End of January update: "Gravity Head 2006: Reality ABV" advance orders preview.

AS OF FEBRUARY 10, THE NEW PAGE FOR GRAVITY HEAD 2006 UPDATES AND LISTINGS IS HERE.

This page will not be updated again.

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February 10 note: I have learned that the regular keg of JW Lees Vintage Harvest Ale (non-wood aged) was not shipped from the UK. It is scratched.

February 8 note: An Ohio contingent of one beer from Rocky River Brewing Company (Cleveland) and two from Ringnech Brewing (Strongsville) joins the unexpected arrival of Great Divide's Old Ruffian to lift microbrew orders to 30, and a grand total of 51 gravity kegs to begin flowing on February 24.

February 2 note: With the addition yesterday of Rogue's Skull Splitter, microbrew gravity orders are up to 26, with import orders at 21, for a total of 47 -- yikes! Roughly two-thirds are in stock already, with the most of the remainder due by February 14.

Here's an updated list of advance orders for Gravity Head 2006, as of February 8, 2006 .

Please note that owing to special circumstances, Gravity Head 2006 has been moved forward two weeks, and will begin on Friday, February 24.

We believe this change will occur this year only, and in 2007, the festival will revert to its usual starting position during the second weekend in March.

Or perhaps not.

As the weeks pass, this list will be augmented with further information. Remember that foraging proceeds apace, and there will be numerous changes to the roster between now and opening day.

Read: Contact me about group seating possibilities for Gravity Head opening night.

A brief history of Gravity Head, 1999-2006.

* indicates that the beer already is in stock at Rich O's.

MICROBREWED GRAVITY.

Avery "The Beast", 14.9% abv

Avery "The Reverend", 10% abv

*Bell’s Batch 7000, 12% abv

Browning's Brewery Imperial Stout, circa 9% abv (firkin)

Dark Horse Double Crooked Tree IPA, 13.6% abv

*Dark Horse Sapient Trip, 8.6% abv

*Flying Dog Gonzo Imperial Porter, 9.5% abv

*Flying Dog Horn Dog Barley Wine, 10.5% abv

Founders Blushing Monk Belgian Razz, 9.5% abv

*Founders Devil Dancer Triple IPA, (2004) 13% abv

*Founders Dirty Bastard, 8.3% abv

*Great Divide Hibernation Ale, 8.1% abv

*Great Divide Hercules Double IPA, 9.1% abv

*Great Divide Yeti Imperial Stout, 9.5% abv

*Great Divide Oak Aged Yeti Imperial Stout, 9.5% abv

Great Divide Old Ruffian Barley Wine, 10.2% abv

*NABC Stumble Bus, (2005) circa 10% abv

*NABC Thunderfoot Imperial Stout, 10% abv

*New Holland Dragon’s Milk, 10.5% abv

*North Coast PranQster, 7.6% abv

Ringneck Brewing Company "To be announced" (waiting for details)

Ringneck Oak Aged “FOTB” Barley Wine, circa 11% abv

Rocky River Neptune's Nemesis, 8% abv

Rogue (John's Locker Stock) Skull Splitter, 8.5% abv

*Rogue XS Old Crustacean Barley Wine, (2002) 11.5% abv

*Rogue XS Imperial Stout, 11% abv

*Rogue XS I2PA, 9.5% abv

*Stone Double Bastard Ale, 10% abv

*Stone Old Guardian Barley Wine, (2005) 11.26% abv

*Two Brothers Bare Tree Weiss Wine, 10.2% abv

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IMPORTED GRAVITY.

AUSTRIA

*Samichlaus Bier (2001) 14% abv

BELGIUM

De Ranke Guldenberg, 8.5% abv

Gouden Carolus Classic, 8.5% abv

Gouden Carolus Tripel, 9% abv

*La Rulles Cuvee “Best Wishes”, 7.3% abv (moved from Saturnalia MMV)

*'t Smisje Dubbel, 9% abv

*'t Smisje Kerst, 11% abv

*Urthel Hop-It Belgian IPA, 9.5% abv

Urthel Samaranth Quadrium, 11.5% abv

CANADA

*Unibroue Maudite, 8% abv

GERMANY

EKU 28, 11% abv

Kulmbacher Reichelbrau Eisbock, 9.2% abv

*Weihenstephaner Korbinian Doppelbock, 7.4% abv

NETHERLANDS

Christoffel Winter Bock, 7.2% abv

UNITED KINGDOM

*Gale’s Christmas Ale, (2005) (cask-conditioned firkin)

*Gale’s Prize Old Ale (2004), 9% abv (vintage TBA)

JW Lees Moonraker, 7.5% abv (moved from Saturnalia MMV)

*JW Lees Vintage Harvest Ale, (Willoughbys crusted port barrel aged; 2004; firkin), 11.5% abv

JW Lees Vintage Harvest Ale, (Lagavulin Scotch barrel aged; 2005; pin), 11.5% abv

*Old Engine Oil Special Reserve, (Invergordon Scotch barrel aged; 2005), 8.5% abv (firkin)

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MOVED TO DUTY DURING SATURNALIA MMVI.

*Kiuchi Hitachino Nest New Year’s Celebration Ale 2006, 9% abv

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SCRATCHED.

Arcadia Hopmouth Imperial IPA ... was not shipped as originally promised.

Chouffe La Gnomette ... shipping schedule delayed; ETA uncertain.

De Dolle Dulle Teve (Mad Bitch) ... to be shipped after Gravity Head.

JW Lees Vintage Harvest Ale ... non-wood aged; was not shipped from the UK.

NABC's Thunderfoot Imperial Stout to be released for Gravity Head 2006.

In yesterday's Publicanista! blogletter, I mentioned Thunderfoot Imperial Stout, a creation of NABC brewers Jesse Williams and Jared Williamson that will be released for Gravity Head on Friday, February 24.

There'll be some top-quality Imperial Stouts on board for this year's Gravity Head, among them Bell's Batch 7000 (12% abv), Great Divide Oaked Yeti Imperial Stout (9.5% abv), and Rogue XS Imperial Stout (11% abv).

Furthermore, I was excited to learn yesterday that brewmaster Brian Reymiller of Browning's Brewery in Louisville is cask-conditioning an Imperial Stout (circa 9% abv) for Gravity Head.

You may recall the single varietal East Kent Goldings ESB that he provided for last autumn's Lupulin Land Harvest Hop fest; it was a very faithfully tended cask ale, which bodes well for an Imperial Stout similarly rendered.

In late December, Jesse and Jared squeezed in the aforementioned batch of Thunderfoot Imperial Stout (circa 10% to 12% abv). Here are some specifics.

Malts: 75% Simpson's Golden Promise 2-row; 10% roasted barley; 5% dark crystal malt; 7% sugar and 3% oats.

Hops: Northern Brewer in the boil, the Northern Brewer, Willamette and Cascade (four further additions).

Yeast: The house London ale yeast.

Intriguingly, dried tart cherries were added to the hopback, and dried Bing cherries (and oak chips) put into the Brite tanks.

It's yet to be seen what the cherries will do for the finished stout, which has matured startlingly from week to week since being brewed, but Thunderfoot is rounding into something very promising, and it should be a worthy match for the other Imperial Stouts booked for Gravity Head.

And as you may know, the Curmudgeon just adores Imperial Stout.

End of January update: "Gravity Head 2006: Reality ABV" advance orders preview.

Greetings from Michigan -- the Great Lakes State.*

* with apologies to Sufjan Stevens, a Detroit native with Holland connections.

Michigan will have strong representation at Gravity Head 2006, and the reason for this is simple.

There are great breweries and equally fine beer in abundance in Michigan.

Perhaps the most interesting of them all is the fabulously funky Jolly Pumpkin, which describes itself as a "land of open fermentation, oak barrel aging, and bottle conditioning."

Alas, no kegs (that's not what they do), and so no Gravity Head, but we're trying to keep bottles in stock; check the last Publicanista! blogletter for availability.

Kalamazoo Brewing Company is a known entity of long standing, and over the years, we've probably served two dozen different Bell's beers on tap throughout the year. Dark Horse (Marshall), Founders (Grand Rapids), and New Holland (Holland) haven't been around quite as long, but each has an outstanding reputation for microbrewing quality and innovation.

Of the four, I know the least about Dark Horse, but fortunately there's an excellent story in the Battle Creek Enquirer from 2005.

Sapient Trip will be on site next week; Double Crooked Tree will come along later in February. Both will be held for Gravity Head duty. For those keeping score, the Dark Horse Tres Blueberry Stout promised for Saturnalia finally arrived, and probably will be on tap by Saturday, January 28.

Here are the Michigan beers slated for Gravity Head 2006:

*Bell’s Batch 7000 12% abv

Dark Horse Double Crooked Tree IPA 13.6% abv

Dark Horse Sapient Trip 8.6% abv

Founders Blushing Monk Belgian Razz 9.5% abv

Founders Devil Dancer Triple IPA (2004) 13% abv

Founders Dirty Bastard 8.3% abv

*New Holland Dragon’s Milk 10.5% abv

See also: End of January update: "Gravity Head 2006: Reality ABV" advance orders preview.

This just in: Gouden Carolus and Gouden Carolus Tripel for Gravity Head.

I've just confirmed that we'll be able to purchase a keg each of Gouden Carolus and Gouden Carolus Tripel, which are brewed by Anker in Belgium and imported by Wetten International.

These are classic examples of Belgian ale, and ones that have gotten even better in recent years owing to foresight and commitment on the part of the brewery's brain trust.

To compete in a tight market, they've resisted the temptation to cut corners, instead choosing to invest in their brew kit and to emphasize the "Belgianness" of their beers, going so far as to establish a policy of using only Belgian hops from the district around Poperinge.

There'll be more tomorrow on the still evolving Gravity Head lineup.

See also: End of January update: "Gravity Head 2006: Reality ABV" advance orders preview.

Niagara Falls, frozen beer and Dave Thrasher's panorama.

Downtown New Albany art store owner Dave Thrasher is a visionary.

He sees art as the vanguard of renewal, and if given free rein, would transform sidewalks and street corners into an open-air urban sculpture park.

Dave also is mobile, accepting work where he finds it, so oftentimes he’s on the road earning a paycheck. Lately he’s been in Ontario, on the Canadian side of Niagara Falls, and when he returned home for a weekend visit and dropped by Rich O’s to drain some grain, Dave came bearing a gift.

It’s a 750 ml bottle of Niagara Falls Brewing Company Eisbock, which lays claim to being the first North American brewery to brew and sell beer that has been frozen and its alcohol content concentrated by removing the ice – which freezes first.

It’s an old German trick, still seen today in the Kulmbacher Reichelsbrau Eisbock G’frorns (drink it at Gravity Head 2006).

To me, the most interesting thing about the notion of freezing beer or wine is that prior to the invention of distillation (by Arabs looking to extract essences for the production of perfume), it was the only way to defy the natural limits of fermentation and concentrate the alcohol content. Fermentation occurs in nature, but distillation is a man-made, industrial process.

Removing the ice does more than concentrate the alcohol. It deepens flavors and sometimes does wild things with esters, as in the case of Aventinus Eisbock (from Germany’s Schneider wheat beer brewery), a delicious take on a wheat-based Doppelbock that emerges from freezing with a flavor almost akin to bubble gum, but in a very good way.

Overall, Niagara Falls Eisbock is tame by comparison with its German forebearers, but highly enjoyable just the same. The alcohol content is 8% by volume, a shade higher than conventional Doppelbock, with which it shares characteristics of color brownish copper and malty flavor – perhaps toffee meets Fig Newton, and certainly interesting and with complex, fruity strains that make me curious as to whether this is a top- or bottom-fermented beer, or whether the freezing is entirely the cause.

Either way, it certainly kept me company for a long while on a cool, though far from chilly evening in bizarrely balmy New Albany.

Somewhere in Canada, Dave Thrasher certainly is better placed climactically to enjoy the warming attractions of Eisbock, and I hope he is. Here’s to a great future for New Albany, Dave’s sculpture idea, and our joint project of painting the exterior concrete walls at the senior citizen’s high rise.

Differentiation: Which -- and how -- do you choose?

A day in the life …

I’m handed a bottle of beer called Thirsty Dog Hoppus Maximus, and the representative of the same wholesale distributorship that recently went a month without having draft Sierra Nevada Pale Ale mispronounces the name before pushing forward the same company’s Old Leghumper and giggling at the image of leggy broads with – what else – a dog.

Ominous, indeed.

Hoppus Maximus bears an alarmingly cheesy label of a Roman legionnaire wannabe with – what else – dogs, set against a backdrop of a Great American Beer Festival medal, and for good reason. HM has medalled four times since 2001.

The beer pours clear and clean, great lace … and a tinge of orange, perhaps the tiniest hint of amber, in the color. It smells like an American Pale Ale, tastes like an American Pale Ale, and is referred to as Pale Ale on the beer rating sites.

So much for unanimity, because all of its medals have come in the GABF’s Amber/Red category. Go figure … and if the answer comes to you, let me know.

It is a clean beer. Bittering hops are largely absent, but there’s plenty of piney citrus in the finishing hops. The body is very light, almost to the point of non-existent. The alcohol content is 5%. In every respect, HM is so technically adept that it might have been an Anheuser-Busch mockrobrew.

For the record, the Thirsty Dog line of beers originated in Ohio, and is contract brewed at Frederick Brewing Company (Maryland).

Conclusions? Perhaps a rant, first.

As both publican and as beer drinker in private life, my taste buds operate under a principle of differentiation.

What about this beer is different? How does it differ from others in the style category? Is it sufficiently special to merit extra effort to find it, or is it the sort of beer you’d be perfectly happy to drink at the brewery’s taproom or pub, but wouldn’t seek it out otherwise?

Labels, graphics and extraneous enticements are not sufficient to achieve differentiation, at least for me, and the consumption context isn’t, either.

The cream of the microbrewed crop combine marketing, art and product originality (think Stone, Three Floyds and the like), and the beer’s still good even after you’ve poured it into a glass and tossed the bottle in the recycling bin.

As for consumption context, I mean that the beer’s still good even if you’re not drinking it in the company of a hot date, at the brewery tap or while watching your team win a playoff game. So often we mistakenly associate beer quality with other enjoyable external factors.

I understand that I’m swimming against the tide. Graphics move products off crowded store shelves, and clever ad campaigns showing a sunny beach and a bottle of insipid Corona do, too. However, that’s what curmudgeons do. We're contrarian.

It's in our blood.

Granted, there is a cool zone of hostility in my heart for breweries that come up with great names, and proceed to wrap them around ordinary beers, and quite frankly, it’s hard to be objective when there’s nothing Hoppus Maximus about Thirsty Frederick Dog’s beer other than GABF medals for the Zelig of microbrewed style categories.

Call me funny, but shouldn’t amber and red ales be (a) amber and red, and (b) have definable malt character?

Apart from all that, Hoppus Maximus is technically flawless ale set squarely in the middle of the road. Calibrate price points, and make your decisions accordingly.

And Old Leghumper?

Promises less, achieves more; center of the style target, deep brown cousin of stout, perhaps a bit more to the malty sweet side than I prefer, but certainly in the range of microbrewed porters everywhere … and, alas, providing the keeper of the beer list with no real flag of differentiation, and consequently no recommendation to stock it.

Neither of these samples are bad beers. Not at all.

But sometimes it’s worth remembering that the little imperfections are what make beers memorable.

More on the advent of Bistro New Albany.

Yesterday’s posting was a reprint of an NA Confidential article from earlier in the week that predicted a January 30 opening for the new Bistro New Albany.

As you may know, this venture does not represent direct financial investment on my part, and is not an offshoot of NABC in any way.

However, BNA will be serving New Albanian Brewing Company beers (and Bluegrass Brewing's, as well as a variety of guest drafts), and as such, it has been regarded since its inception as NABC's downtown taproom of sorts.

My keen interest in Greg’s and Dave’s business goes far beyond the relatively minimal profit that NABC can be expected to garner from beer sales, although money and exposure of course are important.

Since taking up residence in downtown New Albany in 2003, it has been my goal to do whatever I can to contribute to its revitalization.

It is my firm belief that owing to a number of fortuitous factors, many like-minded people have come together over the past two years to bolster the ranks of those who never flagged in their efforts to improve New Albany’s historical core, but simply needed reinforcements and encouragement to take the struggle to the next level.

Accordingly, the advent of Bistro New Albany is a powerful statement of confidence in the future of downtown New Albany.

As long-term veterans of the restaurant business, Greg and Dave spent quite some time investigating start-up possibilities throughout the metropolitan Louisville area … and they chose a venue that some might regard as counter-intuitive or even perverse, although I prefer to think that posterity will recognize that the hopeful signs were simply too many to ignore.

Speaking both personally and on behalf of NABC, it’s going to be very exciting to pair our craft beers with the creative menu items that will be offered at Bistro New Albany.

Rest assured, I already know which beer goes best with our pizza and sandwiches, but the thought of exploring the flavor combinations with a buffalo burger, fresh daily pasta and Capriole goat cheese (among others) stimulates the imagination.

In addition, a local attorney recently told me that the absence of an off-premise “meeting place” downtown hampers productivity. I think you’ll see BNA become such a place. It shouldn't be forgotten that Denver's Wynkoop Brewing Company was the primary early impetus for the revitalization of Lower Downtown (LoDo).

I’ve been asked many times what BNA plans to do for Sunday hours, and as I understand it, nothing is being planned – at least in the beginning.

Greg and Dave have discussed doing a Sunday brunch, but over and above that, let’s hope that it becomes possible during the warm weather months to have the outdoor patio and garden area open for business.

There’s something about drinking good beer outside in nice weather, and something more to drinking it in a lovely setting like the BNA’s garden, especially on a on-working Sunday at the conclusion of a vigorous walk or bicycle ride.

When I pause to consider the other quality-of-life improvements coming to New Albany – Phase I of the Ohio River Greenway, the imminent likelihood of opening the K & I Bridge to link to Louisville’s River Walk, Scribner Place construction, the early stages of loft and condo conversions downtown --- hopeful scenarios are many and bright.

BNA stands to be a huge part of it all. Wish them luck, and check them out when the opportunity arises.

See also “A walk would do you good, Steve.”

Bistro New Albany looking firm for a January 30 opening.

A visit earlier this week confirmed that our friends and intrepid downtown New Albany bistro pioneers, Greg Merz and Dave Clancy, remain knee deep in the all-from-scratch hoopla that attends opening a restaurant, and although they were intent on a January 23 opening, it looks as though January 30 will be the probable starting date.

Hiring is under way, dry goods are coming in, and the various regulatory stipulations are being met.

Although the dining area in the former House of Bread will remain much the same as before, with the addition of a very small bar in the nook to the rear, the kitchen has been entirely revamped. As noted previously, the culinary offerings at Bistro New Albany will be broad and ambitious (see links below for more background information).

NABC intends to supply at least three draft beers to Bistro New Albany, increasing to four or five when supply permits. There will two or three BBC beers on tap, as well as guests like Spaten and Sierra Nevada. Greg plans a short bottled list of beers, and a well-stocked wine cellar.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again: Bistro New Albany stands to be a turning point for the city's reviving downtown business district.

Other pieces of the emerging puzzle are beginning to fit together.

Last week I spoke with Dave at Federal Hill, and he said that in addition to putting the finishing touches on his own expansion plan, he's spending time helping the owners of the new coffee shop near the corner of Spring and State (in the tiling store) get open for business -- with luck, before the end of the month.

Last weekend, I met a former city resident who'd just finished touring downtown properties with Lopp Real Estate's dynamic Mike Kopp, and was excited about investment opportunities.

Read Ann's Diggin' In the Dirt blog entry today for still more good news about downtown New Albany.

Make no mistake, and ignore the disinformation: There is movement on a wide variety of fronts.

New Bistro New Albany hoping to open by the end of January.

Bistro New Albany to open for business later this month at 148 E. Market Street in downtown New Albany.

Of "bombers" and Two Brothers Northwind Imperial Stout.

There was a time when the allure of the 22-oz “bomber” bottle was lost one me, perhaps owing to an almost religious commitment to avoiding trendy advocacies of any sort, but I must admit that after all these years, I’m beginning to see the attraction.

Perhaps this owes to deeply repressed memories of backseat, paper-bagged quart bottles of beer brands I’d sooner not mention without the safety net of a certified shrink and his leather couch.

Something about a nice, big bottle filled with beer … but now, of course, the bottle’s strictly for pouring into a clean glass, not cradling directly to my lips, draining and tossing out the window at a passing street sign.

Not that I ever sanctioned that sort of activity, at least while sober.

Last night, returning home from a New Albany city council meeting and in need of a jar or two to keep me company while writing, I turned to a bomber of Two Brothers Northwind Imperial Stout.

Readers who know me well can attest to my predilection for Imperial Stout, the blackest beauty of all the strong ales, one packing a full deck of flavors into one glass while at the same time varying widely in strength (from low abv’s in the 7% range all the way to 11%, and sometimes beyond).

Viscosity always is high, and mouth-feel broad. Imperial Stouts can be intensely fruity, roasted, sweet and dry all in the course of a single serving.

I find the historical connections between Imperial Stout and its more elusive cousin, Baltic Porter, to be fascinating, and it has long been my opinion that there are more than a few cross-currents between these two styles and Bavaria’s beloved Doppelbock.

As a style that is innately strong, Imperial Stout has occupied a front-row seat in the market-driving field of extreme microbrews, with Rogue’s classic Russian Imperial Stout and Avery’s “The Czar” springing to mind during any discussion of the wonders of innovative excess. Both these are at the highest end of intensity and alcohol content.

The amazing and imported A. le Coq Double Imperial Stout deserves a posting of its own, as it incorporates history, intensity and gravity in a one delicious serving.

It’s worth remembering, though, that for many of us, Samuel Smith Imperial Stout served as our introduction to the genre, and it’s a relatively placid 7% abv. I drank a 12-oz SSIS recently, and enjoyed the textbook flavor, which manages to taste positively “light” compared with the Rogue and the Avery.

My last experience with Two Brothers Northwind Imperial Stout was during Gravity Head a couple of years ago, when our keg of Northwind, while drinkable, had a sour edge that didn’t really belong.

Consequently, I was wary when opening last night’s bomber, but happily, there were no flaws.

Northwind comes in at 8.5% abv, and in all significant respects it maintains this middle ground approach, drinking lighter than its alcohol, but having a pleasant mouthfeel and a powerful roastiness. The broad tableau of hints and nuances appropriate for the style is muted here, and yet the drinkability is high, and I must admit that it was a worthy accompaniment to tasks requiring thought and reasoning – the same sized bottle of “The Czar” would have wiped me clean long before the work was finished.

I’d rate Northwind as solid, and a good introduction to microbrewed Imperial Stout for those unfamiliar with the style.

Yes, it will be on sale at Rich O’s some time next week. How do you think I got the bottle for this review?

Oh, and rest easy -- the empty bottle went into the recycling bin after decanting.

The Curmudgeon discusses his goals for the coming months -- nothing too personal, though.

Between now and the commencement of Gravity Head on February 24, I’m hoping to achieve a number of goals.

Among these are increasing my stocks of signature glassware, re-examining the bottled beer list (some beers come, and others go), and culling the cellar for beers suitable for vending come May and the annual FOSSILS Breweriana Sale.

These goals exist apart from what’s about to be required of the brewery, as in the case of an accurate system of accounting and invoicing for outside sales, incorporating our new logos and artwork into the marketing effort, and refining the core brands.

Gravity Head itself is a monster, requiring much attention to detail and a supreme effort at coordination in order to buy, store and tap 35-40 different beers over a month-long period.

Our banquet and meeting facility, which we’re calling Prost! after the German beer hall toast, is gradually rounding into shape. It will be available for scheduled events, parties, meetings and the like, and as with every other aspect of the business, there must be procedures and rules governing its use if we are to maximize the possibilities that such a space affords.

Nowadays, when I’m able to stay around at night and socialize a bit as in days of yore, it’s a kick. But if you’re wondering why I’m not hanging around during evenings as much as before … read the preceding again. It took a long time for me to get used to the idea that it’s a business and not just a living room with 33 taps … yet, for better or worse, that’s the way it is, now.

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I’m tremendously excited about this year’s breweriana sale, which is tentatively scheduled for May 13. This is a Saturday, as opposed to previous years when the sale was held on Sunday owing to its size and having nowhere to put the vendors and still be open for business.

With Prost!, everything changes. We’ll open Rich O’s early on Saturday morning, have the usual menu (food and beer) available at all times, be able to house numerous breweriana vendors in Prost! – and have a very fun day all the way around.

For me, it means being able to hold one of my periodic ballast-reduction yard sales on the same day as the breweriana people are in attendance (remember, no carry-out sales on Sunday, so it couldn’t be done before).

Put this one on the calendar, and check for further details.

Ben woulda been proud.

Yesterday we dispensed somewhere between three and four kegs of Poor Richard’s “Old Lightning Rod” Ale to thirsty celebrants of Benjamin Franklin’s 300th birthday.

The New Albanian Brewing Company very much appreciates the great response. Special thanks to Dennis Stockslager, who brought a small keg of his homebrewed version to compare and contrast with the batch brewed by Jesse and Jared.

There was much clinking of glassware and animated discussions about Colonial life and times. Busy to work, but fun to be a part of.

Our friend and regular customer Dave has posted his review of PR's OLR here. Please feel free to add yours in the "comments" space below.

Happy Birthday, Benjamin Franklin.

I should have no objection to go over the same life from its beginning to the end: requesting only the advantage authors have, of correcting in a second edition, the faults of the first.
-- Benjamin Franklin

Today is the 300th birthday of Benjamin Franklin, who was born in Boston on January 17, 1706.

At 11:00 a.m., Rich O’s Public House and Sportstime Pizza will be rolling out our barrels of Poor Richard’s “Old Lightning Rod” Ale. We brewed a full 8-barrel (248 gallon) batch, so it should be on tap for a while, not just today.

Revised and updated: Poor Richard's "Old Lightning Rod" Ale (NABC version) debuts on January 17, 2006.

We have the ale, but decided against pairing it with Colonial American food.

For more information in Benjamin Franklin, visit these and many other web sites:

The Benjamin Franklin Tercentenary

Exhibitions Review: Knowing a Man (Ben Franklin), but Not Melons, by Edward Rothstein (New York Times; December 19, 2005).

Benjamin Franklin: A Documentary History

Bourbon barrel stout aging at BBC Beer Company.

Last week, I mentioned a chat with Schlafly Beer’s (of St. Louis) Mitch Turner.

Mitch used to work for the now defunct Pipkin Brewing Company, which occupied the space at the corner of Main and Clay in downtown Louisville that now houses BBC Beer Company, production brewer of the familiar BBC brands, and a fine venue in which to drink them.

Beyond any doubt, the best beer Pipkin ever brewed during its brief three-or so-year run was Bourbon Barrel Stout.

At the time, probably six years ago, I became enthused over the possibilities afforded by a Kentucky brewery marrying craft beer with bourbon, and suggested that brewers and distiller could be partners in branding and marketing such a product, not just locally, but anywhere that bourbon enjoys prominence.

Consequently, my sense of personal vindication was very high this morning as I read this article in the Louisville Courier-Journal:

Bluegrass Brewing partners with distiller, by Bill Wolfe.

The significant part of this to me is the partnership between BBC Beer Company and McLain & Kyne Distillery, maker of Jefferson’s Reserve. Having the names of both companies on the label of “Bluegrass Brewing Co.'s Jefferson's Reserve Bourbon Barrel Stout” is the key to the cross-over between specialty beer and bourbon.

And, as a stunning bonus, we know the final product will be great because our friend David Pierce is the brewmaster running the show.

When we’ve done Bourbondaddy at NABC, my biggest regrets have been the lengthy process required to complete aging of the beer, the space taken by the barrels, and the necessity of maintaining a sane price point for draft sales – all this, and the entire batch would be gone in two weeks.

BBC Beer Company seems perfectly placed to minimize these disadvantages. The brewery has space (18 barrels filled for the first batch, as compared with three at a time at NABC), time and an efficient new bottling line -- and the price point for a premium, bottled beer can be much higher than draft.

I’m very excited, and will report back when I’ve had a chance to taste it.

We address Friday nights at Rich O's, the smoking policy, and other concerns.

The Curmudgeon (upper case “C”) is not about to rain indiscriminately on the parades of fellow curmudgeons (lower case “c”), all of whom know quite well what it’s like to feel, well, a tad curmudgeonly.

At the same time, as a business owner, I’m obliged (and in fact eager) to respond to the concerns and comments of our customers, who in turn are encouraged to provide their critiques and suggestions whenever the mood strikes.

Of course, I understand that such comments almost always are offered in a constructive manner, and as such, they are highly appreciated.

Thus, here are a few thoughts from a Rich O’s regular, as posted on his blog. Granted, I don't believe he was expecting a response, but because the issues raised are timely, I thought I would, anyway.

I don't think I like this new Rich O's very much. This new Rich O's where all of the assholes that used to stay out front, out of my way, are now suddenly compelled by the new smoking policy to come into Rich O's proper.

It's just so fucking crowded.

One of the PBDs remarked that the crowd was certainly good for the owners, and I have to agree that this is true. For now. But what happens when all of the regulars get so sick and tired of standing around all night waiting for a place to sit that they stop bothering to come in at all? What happens when they decide that it's not even worth checking to see what the crowd is like? What happens when they just go somewhere else?

I don't know the answers, and I don't have any solutions. I am pretty sure, however, that doubling the size of the place, but reserving that new space for port tastings and other "special" functions, when it's asses to elbows every single fucking Friday night - well that just doesn't seem like the most brilliant thing I've ever heard of.

Here are my thoughts in response.

The new smoking policy roughly doubled the perimeter of the previously delineated non-smoking section, and was undertaken owing to customer demand, especially insofar as larger groups are concerned.

Adding together the total seating capacity of Rich O’s and Sportstime Pizza, more than half of the seats still are smoking seats, and all the Sportstime seating area remains smoking friendly.

“Regular” customers are the lifeblood of any business, and it’s important to know that there are “regular” customers who have always congregated around the bar area (“Rich O’s proper”), but others who’ve sat and dined at tables in front, where smoking now has been eliminated.

To be truthful, demand for non-smoking seats from these regulars has consistently outpaced specific requests for seating where smoking is allowed.

There’s no doubt that henceforth, it will be more crowded in the bar area. At the same time, winter’s the busiest time in all respects, and in better weather, some customers will prefer to step outside and smoke. This coming spring, we hope to get started on a modest outdoor seating area. State law requires access to be from the Sportstime dining area, but in spite of this minor inconvenience, such a space could become a good draw in temperate weather and relieve the strain indoors.

As for Friday evenings in particular, ask any restaurant or pub owner in Louisville how well Mondays and Tuesdays do by comparison with Fridays, and try see how difficult it is to have consistent policies, procedures and service when seemingly every customer wants to come and eat right at 7:00 p.m. on Friday. It’s very, very hard to be efficient on Friday.

Our new banquet and conference area was not designed for overflow seating one night a week, because to use it that way would offer no help for the real problem we have, which is serving food. The kitchen’s simply not big enough to serve meals in a timely fashion to those extra people who would be seated in the new room – something that already is almost impossible on a Friday evening without seating there.

Pre-arranged functions can be operated according to a fixed menu and prepped beforehand.

Balancing the competing interests of smokers and non-smokers – and regulars and casual visitors – can be daunting, but we’re trying to forge a compromise and adjust conditions as we observe them.

By the way, as to a related point, I'm sorry we ran out of Weihenstephan and Baltika. They come from Cavalier in Indy, which delivers once every two weeks, and if we get a sudden run on product, there's no chance to order again for several days. Both beers should be back in stock by mid-week.

The Curmudgeon does Oregon? Americana? Is anyone safe?

You can bet your last dime that the Curmudgeon intends to test this theory during his upcoming April visit.

In Oregon, It's a Brew Pub World, by Jessica Merrill (New York Times).

Good beer has become so commonplace that it has blended comfortably into the fabric of social life. Instead of fancy distractions, a big scene or a big screen, there is simply craft beer and a craft of another sort - the art of talking.

Yes, a road trip is being planned.

The Curmudgeon and Graham Phillips will be embarking on a nine-day highway outing to Portland, there to meet my wife, and Graham to visit with his son and family.

On the way, we’ll stop at Rogue Ales for an extensive sampling of that legendary brewery’s wares.

There may be other research possibilities in Northern California ...

From Portland, Diana and I will visit Seattle before flying back home.

Meanwhile, Graham will be spending extra quality time in Portland prior to returning to do whatever it is that retired people like him do when they’re not coming into Rich O’s for a pint.

But first, Gravity Head must be staged, and a few more miles put on aching knees.

Stella Artois? I'll pass.

A Louisville Restaurant Forum reader asked: “Not a big fan of Belgian beers, Roger. But when a bartender recommended Stella Artois, I tried it found it to be a decent beer. Are my beer-snob credentials at risk?”

Here is an expanded answer.

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You’re not at risk yet, but preventative education always is merited.

Just as a pound of ground chuck from Kroger somewhat vaguely hints at the many possibilities inherent in the concept of beef, so Stella Artois at least makes us aware of a country, Belgium, with so much more to offer in terms of the glories of beer.

By way of illustration, my favorite beer cafe in Brugge, ‘t Brugs Beertje, does not offer Belgium’s biggest selling beers -- Stella Artois, Jupiler, or Maes Pils -- because they’re pilsners, and as such, representative of a style that originated in the Czech lands and Germany. Quite simply, when it comes to Belgium's considerable native brewing heritage, pilsners aren’t a factor worthy of consideration.

Stella Artois is a gentle, soft, inexpensively brewed mass-market pilsner variant, and it is seen everywhere in Belgium, primarily because it is brewed and marketed by a monolithic corporation that has done every bit as much to bastardize that country’s brewing culture as Anheuser-Busch has in this one.

Admittedly, such largely flavorless lagers account for something like 70% of domestic sales in Belgium, where there are hundreds of traditionally conceived and craft brewed alternatives. In America, of course, the market share of industrial lager is even higher.

So, is Stella Artois a "bad" beer?

No, it probably isn’t, at least if we’re confined to discussing the beer itself and not the contemporary factors that have contributed to its lofty sales position. It's a mild, golden lager complete with alcohol, and competently rendered for the genre.

Is Stella Artois remotely indicative of the diverse Belgian brewing heritage?

No, emphatically, and yet that's how it is marketed within Belgium and around the world, with the sad result that many tourists come away with an extremely misshapen impression of what Belgian beer is all about, to return home to America and locally uninformed bartenders who recommend it on the basis of Belgian beer’s great reputation.

Conversely, there’s Duvel, an ale that truly reflects an important aspect of Belgium’s brewers: Their adaptability.

Duvel is made with pilsner malt and imported hops, and looks rather like a pilsner at first glance, but there’s more than meets the eye. It is top-fermented at a higher gravity, resulting in a clean, crisp and unique classic that isn't that far removed from what pilsner drinkers are accustomed to drinking, but adds Belgian ale-making flair to the finished product.

From the easy jumping-off point of Duvel, Belgian brewing expertise extends in all directions, and the further from Stella Artois one travels, the more absorbing and delightful it gets in terms of flavor profiles, textures, methods … and sheer enjoyment.

By the way, I’ve been told that draft Stella Artois has become available in the state of Indiana.

Don’t look for it at Rich O’s.

Draft Schlafly ales coming soon to Rich O's Public House.

Yesterday I had the pleasure of chatting by phone with Mitch Turner, brand manager for Schlafly Beer in St. Louis.

Schlafly is the second largest brewery in the city – you get three guesses as to the identity of number one, and the first two guesses don’t count.

It has two distinct locations (three counting an airport outlet) and a solid, well-crafted core lineup of familiar microbrewed styles along with plenty of rotating seasonals to make things interesting for the regulars … and for the occasional out of town visitor.

In 2004, while in St. Louis for two inter-league games between the Oakland Athletics and the St. Louis Cardinals (both crushing defeats for my A's), the Baylors and the Tylers sought out Schlafly’s then spanking new Bottleworks in the city’s Maplewood neighborhood, which isn’t far away from the Hill’s famous Italian eateries.

Mitch gave us a great tour of the brewhouse, which was followed by a quality lunch and several rounds of rigorous, scientific sampling materials. I seem to recall Jay and I buying a case or two for home use. If so, my share didn;t last long.

I first met Mitch when he worked for Paul Hummer at Louisville’s defunct Pipkin Brewing Company (now the home of BBC Beer Company), circa 1998, perhaps a bit later. Somewhere in the archives there’s a candid pre-digital photo of Mitch on his hands and knees, hand-filling bottles of Pipkin Pale Ale, and no doubt plotting an early escape to greener pastures.

Based on our three-day visit, he certainly found them, both in his place of employment and his city of residence.

St. Louis is a vibrant big-league kind of place brimming over with art, entertainment, parks, architecture, and a microbrewery that has eluded the suffocating presence of the world’s largest manufacturer of carbonated urine to carve a considerable niche for itself.

In the summer of ’04, with Busch Stadium nearing the end of the line and a new park already under construction, the prevailing joke at Schlafly had to do with its tongue-in-cheek offer to purchase naming rights for the new park (alas, it too will be called Busch Stadium, A-B’s pockets being somewhat deeper than Schlafly’s).

The Schlafly Bottleworks was carefully planned to provide both a production facility and a complement to the brewery’s existing brewpub. An up-and-coming neighborhood was deemed appropriate, and a vacant supermarket property desired owing to the presence of loading docks and a spacious, adaptable floor plan.

The end result is a modern brewing, kegging and bottling operation, attached to a souvenir shop as big as the front room at Rich O’s, and restaurant/pub/banquet facilities with a food menu completely different from its sister brewpub.

Did I mention an outdoor seating area?

While the emphasis remains on the home market, Schlafly has started shipping small quantities of its beer to World Class Beverages in Indianapolis, and this was the topic my conversation with Mitch yesterday.

On the next Indiana-bound truck, there will be two kegs each of American Pale Ale/Expedition Reserve (Schlafly’s commemorative Lewis & Clark beer, now added to the list of regular brewery offerings) and Coffee Stout.

They’ll be on tap at Rich O’s as soon as they’re processed and delivered, and I’m imagining that Jay might want to come and have a taste of ale brewed in the epicenter of Cardinal Nation.

Surely I'll join him.